POROS,
Kefalonia Not to be confused with Poros, the Saronic island, or Paros, one of the Kyklades islands, Poros, on the south-east coast of Kefalonia, is ideal for independently-minded visitors who seek to escape the package tour complex resorts and find something more genuinely Greek. Meaning ford or crossing in Greek, Poros is situated on the only natural crossing point of the Vohinas river: where it enters the sea. Prior to 1953, Poros was just a scattering of fishermen’s huts built on rocky debris washed down the Vohinas river over many millennia. |
The
’53 earthquake destroyed many of the surrounding villages
and a new
town was built, at the foot of towering hills, on the flat
plain of
Poros, which is naturally divided into three bays. On the
central bay
sits the main square, where local festivals are held
during the summer
months and, either side of the square, are the main beach
and Poros
port. The main land access to Poros is via a road cut into the side of the 80 metre deep Poros gorge, through which flows (in winter months) the Vohinas. The road leads down to the taverna-lined central square, directly behind the pebbly town beach. Behind the square are the local shops: a couple of grocers, a greengrocer, a couple of butchers, a baker’s shop, the (sometimes) bank (with ATM), doctor’s surgery (part-time), dentist, pharmacy, petrol station, and so on: just about everything necessary for every day life in a small town. Across the ford, which becomes impassable during the winter, lay a few more tavernas and bars and the Blue Flag beach of Aragia, a long stretch of pale sand, white pebbles and clear water. The sea caves along the rocky, uninhabited coastline between Aragia, Sami and Fiskardo are thought to be the last refuge on Kefalonia of the almost extinct Mediterannean Monk Seal. |
A
short walk from the central square, over a small
hillock, lays Poros
port where dock the ferries connecting Kefalonia with
Kyllini on
the Peloponnese part of mainland Greece (and, sometimes,
directly with
Italy). An extension to the port, opened during the
summer of 2008,
enables two ferries to be in port simultaneously and
provides more
berths for visiting yachts, of which there can be many
in summer. On the cliffs above the new quay are two tavernas with tremendous views across Poros (especially romantic of an evening) while two more tavernas, two or three bars. a mini-market and several hotels ring the harbour where local fishing boats and small tour boats mingle with visiting yachts. |
High
in the hills above the port lies the Drakaina cave,
inhabited in
pre-historic times, and the remains of an ancient citadel,
probably
pre-dating the Mycenaean era. Across the Vohinas, high on
the opposite
hill, is the Atros monastery, dating back to around 800
AD. Just through the gorge, on the edge of Tzanata village, a very well preserved Mycenaean tholos (beehive) tomb was discovered by a local archaeologist. Although looted by tomb raiders, virtually intact skeletal remains of a Mycenaean-era king were found lying in the tomb, provoking claims that the mighty Odysseus, legendary king of Ithaka, had been found. Scientific tests suggest the remains probably pre-date this. |
During
2011 excavations near the tomb revealed remains of a
Mycenaean-era
settlement, inspiring claims that Oddyseas' palace had
been discovered.
In
the village square at Tzanata is an ever-running
sweet-water spring,
fed from the mysterious ‘bottomless’ lake Avithos at
Agios Nikolaos
which, although very high in the hills behind Poros, is
part of the
Elios-Pronnoi region. Poros, although the main town in
the area,
isn’t the administrative centre: that honour belongs to
Pastra, which
sits, above Poros, Skala and Katelios, on the main road
linking Poros
with Argostoli and Sami. Nearby, above the church at
Kornello, are
scattered remains of another ancient citadel. |
Poros
is rich in history and legend: the Poros gorge was cut
by Hercules
when he trod on, and flattened, this part of the
mountain
range. And just outside Poros, on the ‘new’ road to
Skala (only
surfaced as recently as 1996) is a long stretch of
pebbly beach where
locals go spear-fishing. Just off the beach lie a number
of large,
almost mushroom-shaped, rocks – thrown by the Cyclops at
pirates
attacking the island. (Oh,
if you don’t believe in the existence of the Cyclops,
take a look at
ancient Krani, outside Argostoli – who could've built it
but the Cyclops). Poros, at the end of the gorge. Photo via ex-Elios-Pronnoi website |
Equally odd: During British rule an attempt was made to revitalise the villages outside of Poros by importing Maltese farmers, their families and agricultural experience. However, the idea failed and most, if not all, returned to their homeland. |
In
the early eighties Poros was the first to welcome
organised tourism to
Kefalonia when a French cruise ship called in. After
this, British
package companies regularly brought tourists to Poros
until the late nineties, when Skala became more popular. During July and August Poros bursts into life with Greek visitors keen to re-experience Greek island lifestyle in an almost totally Greek environment. For, apart from a handful of central-European visitors, Poros is free of package tourism and, out of peak season, remains a relaxed backwater favoured by discerning independent travellers, many of whom return year after year, warmly welcomed back by genuinely friendly locals. |
Adapted
from an original contribution to
Wikipedia, 01 March, 2006 |